Cambodia's Kratié area offers an unspoiled provincial escape on the banks of the Mekong River, with dolphin watching, and home remains

We take after the town senior as he wanders along a soil track that slices through wilderness and paddies, and circumspectly climbs the shaky stairs of an incapacitated wooden shack amidst an open field. "Animism is polished here," says our guide Phiya. "He needs consent from the spirits previously you can remain."

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